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Welcome to the house of fun

Mini prawn brioche roll… featured small, sweet prawns mixed with tabasco mayo, lumpfish caviar and dill. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Loud and boisterous, the new Lager House in Campbell is building a reputation as a ‘house of good times’, says dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.

It’s loud, boisterous and full of personality. Lager House, recently opened in the new East Traders Hall precinct, Campbell, features a U-shaped bar, open kitchen, wood-fired grill, massive, shiny 1500-litre tanks, and plenty of seating inside and out. 

Wendy Johnson.

Presented by Capital Brewing Co, the Lager House opened at the end of March. It’s been pumping since, building a reputation as a “house of good times”.

The menu is divided into small stuff (all day), pub classics, salads, wood-fire dishes, woodfire feasts (such as the 12-hour, slow-cooked lamb shoulder for $120), kid’s dishes and desserts. Share or don’t share… we certainly did.

The mini prawn brioche roll ($9 each), meant to be on the lighter side, featured small, sweet prawns mixed with tabasco mayo, lumpfish caviar and dill. 

Our taste buds danced with the pan-fried, crispy halloumi ($20), gorgeous with wildflower honey, but not overly sweet. Fresh grapes, crunchy pistachio and springs of thyme rounded matters out. 

The pan-fried, crispy halloumi… with wildflower honey, grapes, crunchy pistachio and springs of thyme. Photo: Wendy Johnson

The cauliflower wings are fun ($18) – big florets crisped up nicely and enhanced with sesame dressing. Tiny bits of kale added some greenery (don’t expect kale chips… more crisps).

Cauliflower wings… big, crisp florets enhanced with sesame dressing. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Moving to mains, we shared the steak frites ($34, for 200 grams). It’s only served medium rare, but it was lovely and tender. We smothered it with whipped tarragon butter. The fries were slightly soggy from the meat being placed on top.

The steak frites… only served medium rare. Photo: Wendy Johnson

While the glazed, charred house lager-brined half chicken smacked of flavour, it was too dry in parts ($32). Thumb’s up to the vibrant rojo sauce and punchy peppers. 

Glazed, charred house lager-brined half chicken. Photo: Wendy Johnson

The tasty chickpea tabbouleh salad was pretty on the plate ($24). A mound of whole chickpeas was placed on a generous smear of creamy hummus, and the salad was topped with fresh tomatoes (not the heirloom promised), crunchy cucumber, parsley and more. 

Chickpea tabbouleh salad… with creamy hummus, topped with tomatoes, crunchy cucumber and parsley. Photo: Wendy Johnson

While we also enjoyed the “baby leaf salad”, what arrived didn’t match the menu description. Absent were olives and pickled red onions. Making an appearance were cucumber and tomato ($9). 

The beer line-up is impressive – as one would expect – and the wine list is pretty darn good, with local labels showcased. 

On our visit, the heavy-style rock music was super loud, causing everyone to raise their voices when talking. However, staff kindly turned it down when asked. 

The new, all-day dining precinct at East Traders Hall precinct covers more than 800 square metres of space, and the first wave of retailers also includes Lava Coffee, cult pizza fave Sliceria, and Chairman Group’s new restaurant World. Lager House can seat more than 470 customers.

Free parking is available in the basement off Wendourie Drive (validate ticket at the bar). Mobile reception isn’t great, says Lager House, so there’s free wi-fi.

 

Wendy Johnson

Wendy Johnson

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