Surrounded by tranquil bushland, open pastures and serene views of the Deua Mountain Range, The Oaks Ranch, at Mossy Point, offers a boutique hotel experience, writes dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.

On more than 130 hectares, The Oaks Ranch features a nine-hole golf course, a magnesium swimming pool and – the reason we were there – the award-winning Arlo Restaurant.

To find Arlo Restaurant, simply follow Old Mossy Point Road to the end. Greet the resident roos on arrival, and then sit back and relax around a gourmet dining experience. 

We were driving back to Canberra after lunch and so opted for mocktails, which we sipped while soaking in the views and dining al fresco on the poolside patio. 

The baked scallops with wakame butter were luscious yet firm, and the seaweed added a rich, bold umami flavour that impressed (two scallops for $22).

Our knowledgeable, efficient waiter recommended sharing the lamb ribs (23 pieces for $21). The lamb fell off the bone and celebrated one of my favourite spices, cumin. The touch of honey was fun, and the ribs were lovingly plated on top of creamy yoghurt. We’d return just for this dish. 

Three pastas were on the menu, as were large share dishes, including confit duck, charcoal chermoula chicken, 9+ wagyu sirloin, and a one-kilogram T-bone steak (dishes range from $46 to $98). 

After much studying and angst over what to order, we both selected a pasta dish. 

I couldn’t fault the pappardelle alla vodka ($40). All pastas are made on site, and the difference is noticeable. The sauce was vibrant and well-balanced, and the generous serving of plump prawns hit the spot. And who can go wrong with a fresh sprig of basil?

My friend applauded the ink tagliatelle. The jet-black pasta had a dramatic, dark appearance and truly made a statement. The blue swimmer crab pieces were sweet, and the dish had just the right amount of chilli and lemon ($42).

Well executed was the butter lettuce and radish salad with a perky citrus vinaigrette ($14), a shining example of how a simple salad can hit the spot. 

On another recommendation from our waiter, we ordered a special dessert of the day (complementing the three options on the main menu for $17 or $18). Our peach tart, with a beautifully crumbly base and a zippy plum sorbet, was a memorable ending.

Those who prefer can order 12-month aged Manchego cheese with quince and lavosh ($14).

The ambience at Arlo is great, and the music playlist perfect for the restaurant’s personality. 

Arlo is open to the public and in-house guests. Bookings of eight guests or more must dine on a set share menu. Be sure to reserve because the restaurant caters to large special events and can be packed out.