“The guide asked the 10 of us whether it was a gin tasting or another wine tasting that should form part of the itinerary. Nine voted for gin. I abstained.” Columnist RICHARD CALVER reports from his wine tour to Kangaroo Island. 

Wine tourism is growing. Tourism Research Australia estimates there were 7.5 million visits to wineries from domestic and international travellers in 2024. 

So, as a tourist visiting Kangaroo Island in SA recently I was looking forward to sampling some of the local wines and adding to those visitor numbers. I’m in agreement with the school of thought that says tourists want “real life”, provided it comes with a menu.

Kangaroo Island is a splendid place, well recovered from the devastating bushfires that burnt 46 per cent of its land area in the summer of 2019-20.

For example, Islander Estate lost all of its vines in those fires and has come back strongly. Alas, I only tasted a glass of the Bordeaux-style red with one of the five dinners we enjoyed, a mellow shiraz, cabernet franc blend. The group didn’t make it to the Islander estate cellar door. We tasted gin made by Kangaroo Island Spirits instead. 

The group voted not to go to any other wineries after an experience at the Bay of Shoals winery that was underwhelming. When we arrived, there was a lot of construction going on but the tasting room was not affected, was well laid out and Julie the cellar door attendant was welcoming.

Our guide told us that new owners would likely convert the place to a restaurant rather than continue it as a winery. We had great views of the bay and Reeves Point. For $15 we were offered a taste of four wines. 

The first was a non-vintage sparkling. It was poured into our large tasting glasses and soon lost its bubbles. We told this to Julie who apologised and we were given another taste in flutes.

The first taste as the bubbles faded showed some stone fruit elements in a wine of acceptable length. But when served so that the bubbles didn’t fade easily, a lovely brioche finish was discernible. 

Next was a 2020 riesling from vines that weren’t affected by the fires, as they are located close to the sea front. This was a wine that had developed a petroleum aftertaste that occurs with some older rieslings. It also had a citrusy lemon peel flavour, but the petroleum influence made it not the drink of choice. 

Third was a 2023 rose’ that was derived from cabernet sauvignon grapes: the wine was, according to Julie, on skins for eight hours. It had capsicum on the nose and was dry and rather metallic in the finish. Not a wine that the group enjoyed. 

The last wine was a 2020 cabernet sauvignon. The winemaker had decided to produce a wine from smoke-tainted grapes. That smokiness was evident and the flavour of capsicum was mixed in with a deep plum taste. It was a very unusual wine. 

One of our number wanted to buy a bottle of the sparkling. It was $55 a bottle, but the tasting fee would only be deducted if two bottles of wine were purchased so she said, “no thanks”. I said, trying not to be a smartarse (perhaps failing) for $55 you can get a vintage 2021 Pirie sparkling from Tasmania that has a bold finish, brioche and lime present with great mouth feel. I received bemused stares. 

The next day the guide asked all 10 of us whether it was a gin tasting or another wine tasting at Islander Estate that should form part of the itinerary. Nine voted for gin, I abstained. That let down reminds me I just bought a book entitled “101 mating positions” and was very disappointed that it’s about chess.