Dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON revels in a special eatery at the new Sydney Fish Markets.

Luke Nguyen is no stranger to Australians who are passionate about food. 

His smiling face pops up on television shows. His inspirational cookbooks are sought after, and his restaurants are major drawcards. He is, indeed, one of this country’s best-loved chefs. 

So when I heard about Luke’s newest restaurant at the relatively new Sydney Fish Markets, I made it a mission to get there. 

Lua is a classy, vibrant, but warm establishment, sitting right on the waterfront at Blackwattle Bay. It has so much to offer and, if you’re lucky, you’ll see Luke wandering about saying hello to guests (we did!).

Lua means “fire” in Vietnamese, and the seafood-led menu is inspired by Luke’s Vietnamese heritage, Thai roots and Australian upbringing. The result is as impressive as the mighty Mekong – the longest river in southeast Asia and a source of inspiration for Luke and Lua.

Being right at the markets means fresh seafood and fish on tap daily. From the raw bar, arrived freshly shucked, creamy, decadent oysters with finger lime and tamarind fish sauce ($42 half dozen; $79 a dozen). They were absolutely delicious.

Luke is famous for his artisan dumplings, and both the coral trout, calamari and prawn version, and spanner crab, lemongrass and tomato version were mouth-watering ($27 for three). Each silky, hand-made dumpling was packed with divine flavours.

Lua mastered the banana leaf Mahi Mahi featuring coriander seeds and fragrant, sharp Vietnamese mint ($54). The firm and meaty fish was cooked to perfection and picked up the flavours beautifully.

Another masterpiece was the sizzling King prawn claypot in a marvellous bisque ($38). It was heart-warming, and who doesn’t love fluffy ST24 premium Vietnamese fragrant rice?

Dessert was a cooling coconut sorbet with a stunning fish-sauce caramel ($14). I bet that the Vietnamese coffee tiramisu with salted coconut cream is to-die-for ($21).

Next, it was time to sit back and relax over Mua craft pineapple and chilli sake ($80 for 90 ml). Lua’s extensive sake list has been curated by a certified sake sommelier. The wine list is a statement in itself. 

For those keen on cold seafood, Lua offers a platter ($150) with highly prized Oscietra caviar (10 grams $65). Banquet options include one featuring land and sea produce ($119 per person, minimum 4) and another a feast of all of Luke’s seafood favourites ($185 per person).

Lua is a massive establishment, with plenty of indoor and outdoor dining. Despite its size, the staff are inviting, attentive and a whole lot of fun. They excel at making everyone feel super special.

Take time to wander through the Sydney Fish Market itself. Check out the stunning architecture, ginormous fish tanks, specialty retail shops and eateries presenting multicultural cuisine.