Reliable, steady Portia’s Place, after 29 years and having changed hands only a few times, still goes strong in today’s truly volatile hospitality scene, says dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.
In 1996, a gold plaque was erected on the side of a building in Kingston announcing the opening of Portia’s Place by Sir William Keys and The Rev David Thiem.
Fast forward 29 years and this reliable, steady Cantonese Chinese restaurant, having changed hands only a few times, still goes strong in today’s truly volatile hospitality scene.
I’ve been a fan since Portia herself was at the helm and adore the current team as much for their attentive, friendly service as their continued focus on authentic cuisine. Portia’s Place is one of my “go-tos” when I’m looking for dishes jam-packed with well-balanced flavours.
Faves include the crispy duck with Chinese pancakes, some of the best Canberra offers ($42 for half-a-duck with six pancakes). Most times, the pancakes are assembled for diners at the table with a bit of fanfare. The meat is unfailingly tender (never fatty) and the pancakes wonderfully thin. The cucumber adds crunch and who doesn’t adore a thick, dark, sweet and savoury hoisin sauce?
Another dish we dream about is the soft steamed scallops on the shell ($20 for four), served with a delicate ginger and shallot sauce (finished with a splash of hot oil). They’re sensational.
We worship the crispy-skin quail ($16) with a hit of chilli. It’s marinated, lightly fried and tossed with spiced salt in a piping-hot wok to retain its moisture inside and crispiness on the outside.
Prawn lovers won’t go wrong with the sizzling garlic variety, with delightful, crunchy snow peas and rich, nutty cashews for additional texture ($36).
Our group tends to order the “same-same” at Portia’s Place because that’s what we love and it’s why we go. However, we break free occasionally, which takes me to the spicy mustard chicken (with three chillies marked beside it on the main menu, $28). The house-made mustard chilli oil was out-of-this-world and coated the tender chicken beautifully. It has plenty of kick and this stir-fry dish is created with yummy garlic soy sauce.
On a recent visit, we ordered the tried-and-true san choi bao, a classic in its own right ($20 for two). The stir-fried minced chicken is mixed with onion, mushrooms and water chestnuts and then generously scooped into big lettuce cups. Wrap up carefully and enjoy every bite.
Portia’s main menu is confident enough to have kept many dishes on the menu for yonks, but that’s part of the charm. Plenty of rotating specials keep interest levels high.
Portia’s Place, on Kennedy Street, has plenty of indoor seating and, like the main menu, the décor hasn’t changed much. Outdoor dining, on basic plastic green tables and chairs, is limited. Takeaway is hugely popular.
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