Relatively new in the city on Bunda Street, Botswana Butchery is a steakhouse extraordinaire with an uncertain future, writes dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.
The Botswana Butchery went into voluntary liquidation – along with its Sydney and Melbourne locations – on March 31. But it is still trading.
Botswana Butchery sure loves its meat and game, but fish is also celebrated (prawns, scallops, lobster included). Classic, beautifully presented dishes showcase quality produce and gorgeous rich sauces. Established in NZ, the emphasis is on fun and flavour, as well as chef and culinary director Angel Fernandez’s Chilean heritage, which adds spice and intrigue.
At Botswana Butchery you can select something light and easy or go for a more fulsome three-course lunch or dinner.
The “fun” part of our Botswana Butchery’s experience began with playful tuna cones from the raw bar section of the menu ($8 each). The tuna is carefully cut into cubes, popped into small crunchy cones, and topped off with creamy wasabi, chives and salty salmon roe. The half-shell scallops were divine and a real indulgence (two for $24).
Next was the Tarte Fine, very pretty on the plate ($30). This light entrée is created with goat’s cheese, escalivada (grilled or roasted vibrant veggies) and colourful, edible marigold. The combination of flavours worked a treat, and the execution was stunning.
From the “Butcher’s Block”, we shared the Yambinya Station Rib-Eye (500 grams for $105). This is beef at its best. From Burraboi, NSW, the meat is 90-day, grain finished. It was succulent and cooked perfectly at rare-to-medium-rare. Larger groups so inclined can share the 1.6-kilogram Jack’s Creek Wagyu Tomahawk (marble 5+) for $390.
Sauces and butters are extra ($6), and the smooth, silky red wine and bone marrow was a standout.
Our mignonette salad was fresh and delightful, with garlic croutons, boiled egg and pecorino (all salads are $17). Sides include duck fat potatoes with thyme and sea salt ($14), Dauphinoise potatoes and raclette ($14), and mighty fine and piping hot shoestring fries with full-flavour rosemary salt ($12).
Botswana Butchery is creative with desserts and our mango and pineapple meringue, combining sorbet, curd and Malibu tapioca pearls ($21) – followed by a cheeseboard ($36) – formed the grand finale.
Botswana Butchery needn’t be a super expensive dining experience (depending on what you order, of course) but the bill can get up there if, for example, you order wine worth hundreds a bottle, or partake in the decadent caviar service (black pearl sturgeon is $450 for 50 grams).
The wine list features a substantial range of “organic or undergoing organic conversion and biodynamic farming principles”. We adored the Olifantsberg Grenache Noir 2021 ($110).
Botswana Butchery’s interior is plush and upmarket (reminded me of sophisticated places in Manhattan) with a wonderful mix of textures, including soft velvets and smooth leathers. Service was impeccable.
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