Thirteen years ago, a restaurant in Braddon opened with unbridled enthusiasm and a determination to make a difference, writes dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.

Last month, on April 18, Eightysix celebrated its birthday proclaiming: “We’ve served thousands upon thousands of you, rolled more tortellini that we care to count, dished up an unbelievable number of banoffee pies…”

Eightysix is unapologetically itself and in many ways, little has changed since its exciting entrance on to the dining scene.

The fitout holds strong, the massive open kitchen/bar is still a focal point, and the knowledgeable, energetic waitstaff a major strength. 

Our first dish was a newbie for us. The salt and vinegar potato scallop ($7 each) was a flavour bomb – crispy on the outside, soft on the inside with real potato, and a perfect balance of salt and vinegar. 

A winner share dish is the fragrant crispy eggplant, which even those who don’t like aubergine should try ($28). The Sichuan chilli tingled and caramel added a sweetness without overloading. Thick slices of eggplant were cooked so they held shape and weren’t mushy. Fresh coriander perched on top added a welcome herby element. Delish.

Next up was the heirloom tomato with stracciatella ($28). Key to Eightysix’s success is its commitment to quality ingredients. Ripe and tasty chunks of tomato were married with plum for sweetness. The soft stracciatella was creamy, mild and luscious. 

Eightysix offers a compact menu, but there wasn’t a dish we wouldn’t have eagerly ordered. Although challenging to decide, we next enjoyed the curry leaf king salmon ($46). Salmon selection can be tricky these days, with salmon farming facing intense scrutiny in some parts of the world, so we asked about the source and were told Eightysix has a reputable supplier that can pinpoint where salmon is sourced. 

This salad-type dish was refreshing, vibrant and wow-factor. The salmon is served with green mango, watercress, avo, slices of red onion and coriander. It looks as beautiful as it tastes and the salmon was silky on the tongue.

Eightysix wouldn’t dare take certain dishes off its menu. They are far too popular and fans would riot. That includes the famous pumpkin and mascarpone tortellini (which we had the first time when the Woden sister restaurant was open). It’s a wonderful creation with a sexy brown butter sauce, crispy pieces of sage and crunchy hazelnuts ($40).

Another dish Eightysix is well-known for is the banoffee pie with pretzels ($20). We were a bit full for that dish of decadence and so shared the three-way chocolate dessert ($20). 

Eightysix’s wine list is impressive, and the cocktail list is inviting. Service was spot on and super engaging and fun. Happy birthday, Eightysix!