“Pomegranate has stood the test of time and is elegant, comfortable, warm and inviting. I love it,” writes dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON. “But it was off its game throughout the evening, from start to finish.”

Throughout its 12 solid years, Pomegranate has held its own in an ever-changing hospitality industry for its modern Australian food with a Mediterranean twist.

Along the way, the restaurant has been rewarded with Australian Good Food Guide hats and other awards.

The interior has stood the test of time and is elegant, comfortable, warm and inviting. I love it.

It was with great anticipation that we visited with interstate guests, keen on supporting long-standing dining establishments as much as the new ones popping up here, there and everywhere in the capital. 

Excellent was the Atlantic salmon carpaccio ($24). An amazingly generous portion, the salmon was marinated with apple cider vinegar, onion, ginger and chilli. It was luscious, velvety and intriguing. The carpaccio was beautifully plated, making it a true feast for the eyes. 

Also a mega hit was the zucchini and feta cheese fritters ($24), shaped into balls and served with a creamy garlic yoghurt dressing that was cool on the palette. The fritters were light yet more-ish. 

Mains include a tasty, tender premium Wagyu striploin (marble score 4; $70). Wagyu is a luxury item, and the beef was handled with great care by the team in the kitchen.

Pomegranate sources the striploin from Australia’s leading Tajima bloodlines, and the steak was melt-in-the-mouth. The beef jus was perfectly executed and featured depth of flavour. The mash was creamy and enhanced with grated cheddar. 

Disappointing were the chargrilled Cowra lamb cutlets ($48), which I’ve had many times at Pomegranate, so I was surprised. Pomegranate doesn’t skimp on quantity – four cutlets arrived with potato kofte, grilled veggies and a roasted garlic mayo.

However, they were overcooked and tough, so much so I returned them and followed the footsteps of two of our party and ordered the Wagyu (paying $22 more).

The leaf salad was fresh and inviting ($15) and we appreciated the mix of radicchio, cos lettuce heart and rocket. Creamy goat’s feta enhanced the salad.

Our visit was badly affected by poor service. Pomegranate was off its game throughout the evening, from start to finish. It lacked polish and was uncomfortable for all of us. 

Issues began with drinks being badly delayed, and then one forgotten. When we asked about the specials, the person serving wasn’t able to describe the dishes. We pushed, keen on knowing the detail, but even after a visit to the kitchen we weren’t enlightened. 

We struggled to gain attention many times, and affogatos at the tail end took an enormous amount of time to arrive, stretching our patience to the limit.

At one point, one of our party went to express concern. In the end, Pomegranate removed a side from our bill. 

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