“Sandwiches are ‘a thing’ these days, even going viral on social media,” writes dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.

I was drooling when I watched the MasterChef segment on gourmet sandwiches… drooling.

Sandwiches are “a thing” these days, even going viral on social media. Layer upon layer of quality ingredients, interesting textures, vibrant colours, mega flavour and an intriguing visual cross-section when cut. The creators of these sandwiches put thought into every bite. 

Stacks is a new sandwich and coffee shop in the Canberra Centre run by The Fresh Collective. We landed not long after it opened, wondering whether its sandwiches would be next level.

There’s nothing new about the mint and forest green fitout at Stacks, but that’s no surprise because it’s the same design as the predecessor sandwich shop – &Sando, a partnership between Sydney celebrity chef Matt Moran and The Fresh Collective.

One day, seemingly out of the blue, Moran said goodbye to the nation’s capital. The &Sando sign came down, and within 24 hours or so, Stacks opened.

Mornings start off early with two types of croissants and a Berkshire bacon-and-egg roll with house-made tomato relish ($16). 

From 10 to 3, sandwiches roll out (on our visit five options, $16 to $20). We popped in late afternoon and thought we had missed out, with major gaps in the glass display case.

However, highly personable staff told us that a fresh range was about to arrive from the kitchen, and it promptly did.

The Reuben was nicely toasted and packed with thinly sliced, smoky, seasoned, salty pastrami, which was melt-in-the-mouth. Loved the complex flavour with perky pickled cabbage, the slightly sweet, creamy Swiss cheese and a balanced dressing. I love a good Reuben and this one – although a bit thin for my liking – certainly hit the mark. 

Our second choice (we shared both sandwiches) was the Say No More, featuring chicken and not toasted. The presentation looked pale with the chicken chunks mixed with mayo and served in a white roll. Don’t let that fool you, because the chicken was moist and the sandwich loaded with bacon bits and shallots, for essential crunch.

Stacks has a small range of sweets and pastries, including a chewy, gooey, lip-smacking brownie ($7). It’s a nice size – not too small, not too large. Lovely was the Basque Cheesecake ($14), superbly smooth, creamy and light. 

I wouldn’t say Stacks is a high-end sandwich operation, and while we didn’t drool, we weren’t disappointed.

Stacks has some bar seating inside and several tables outside. Those who prefer can skip the queue by ordering online. 

It’s not just &Sando that Moran farewelled. Compa, the Italian steakhouse he opened just next door, also closed. It, too, swiftly re-opened, as Curiosa, an Italian-inspired wine bar (also run by The Fresh Collective).

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