Winter pruning provides the opportunity to recycle branches into a dead hedge that supports wildlife, screens garden areas and creates a natural ecosystem as it slowly breaks down, says gardening columnist JACKIE WARBURTON.

Winter pruning of most deciduous trees and shrubs can begin once all the leaves have fallen and plants have entered dormancy. 

Rather than sending prunings to the green bin, consider using them to build a dead hedge, which offers both practical and ecological benefits.

To build a dead hedge, start by clearing a weed-free area where the hedge is to be located. Use strong branches as the framework, staking them about 50cm apart in two parallel rows of whatever length you require. Fill the space between the stakes with branches, logs, twigs, sticks or other organic material.

For stability, place the heaviest green waste at the base, then build up in layers, firming the material down as you go. During winter, some of the material will decompose, so topping it up periodically will help maintain its structure. Once the desired height is reached, weave binder branches through the tops of the stakes to keep everything upright and improve stability.

Dead hedges have many uses. They provide habitat for wildlife, screen off areas of the garden and offer an easy way to dispose of woody material. Wood-inhabiting fungi (saprophytes) colonise the hedge, creating a natural ecosystem that helps break down the material over time.

A GROUNDCOVER that is relatively new to our gardens is Japanese grass (Hakonechloa macra). This perennial dies down in winter before re-emerging in spring. It tolerates dry soils and grows well beneath trees where little else will thrive.

Several yellow-foliaged varieties are available, although these benefit from extra shade during summer to prevent leaf scorch. Plants spread slowly by rhizomes and can be divided over time to create more plants. Frost-damaged foliage should be left in place through winter, then trimmed back in late spring as new growth appears.

Japanese grass is best planted in spring to establish well before winter. Avoid planting it too deeply. Once established, it is very much a set-and-forget plant that requires little water.

ALTHOUGH there is not much to plant in the garden over the next few months, now is an excellent time to browse seed catalogues and prepare for raising seedlings indoors or on a heat mat, ready for planting in October when the soil has warmed.

Seeds can be sown in any container that allows water to drain freely. The growing medium should be light and fluffy so roots can develop easily. Sifted potting mix can be used if seed-raising mix is unavailable, but avoid media containing fertiliser, as seedlings do not require feeding until after germination and the development of several sets of leaves.

Sow seeds into punnets and cover lightly with sand or potting mix to keep them in place. Water from below to prevent seeds being dislodged or overwatered.

NOW is also the time to take hardwood cuttings of hydrangeas, roses, figs and other deciduous trees or shrubs. Hardwood cuttings are longer than softwood cuttings and should be at least 20cm long with three to four nodes, or growth points.

Take cuttings from the current year’s growth before branches become too woody. Place several cuttings around the edge of a small pot to improve drainage, water them in, then position the pot on an unheated bench or windowsill. In two to three months they should be ready for potting.

Jottings

• Remove all hellebore leaves off all plants. 

• Liquid feed all foliage plants to keep them strong. 

• Plant winter-flowering Grevilleas. 

• Prune kiwi fruit and kiwi berries.

jackwar@home.netspeed.com.au

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