When Japanese and Korean cuisines combine, magic happens, says dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.

Chef Koh and chef Kim, at Azuma Den, worship the hibachi grill, which requires special skill to manage the flames.

They also worship simple but bold flavours, elegant plating and well-balanced seasonal ingredients. 

These two creative chefs and their team are on a mission at Azuma Den, bringing a unique offering to the suite of eateries at East Hotel in Kingston.

Housed where Muse used to be, the overall structure of the restaurant is similar in some ways, but the décor transformed with layers and textures, inviting fabrics, intriguing art and gorgeous lighting. It’s all very earthy and warm. 

Dining is primarily share-style, which we love. Our taste buds danced with delight as we polished off a generous bowl of fire-flamed edamame, tossed in seaweed and dusted with a smoky shichimi spice blend ($10). One word describes this dish: Addicting.

Equally delicious were our flamed scallops with yuzu butter and salmon roe (two for $16). They were succulent and rightly commanded a high score. 

Although still relatively new, Azuma Den has solidified its reputation for wagyu beef tartare tacos ($24). The beef was melt-in-the-mouth, the tacos crunchy, and the nashi pear and cucumber refreshing. This is a “think outside the box” creation.

House-made dumplings are cooked fresh to order. They take 10 to 15 minutes to arrive, but it’s worth the wait.

With full commitment to sourcing from premium suppliers, the pork in the pan-fried dumplings with ginger hails from Byron Bay Berkshire Pork. It’s moist and high on taste. These dumplings feature soy oil made from shishito peppers and peanuts (three pieces, $13; six pieces, $24, single dumplings can be added for $4 each).

There was no way we were going to pass by the “KFC”. Azuma Den’s Korean Fried Chicken is masterful and demonstrates the skill applied in balancing spices and flavours (small $22, large $30). Each piece was juicy and packed a punch. Cubes of pink, pickled radish cut through the heat. 

For a different texture, we taste-tested the whole piece of silken spicy tofu ($18). It is steamed with chilli and decorated with shredded pieces of aromatic perilla leaf (from the mint family). It was smooth and soul-satisfying.

To top off our experience, we shared a superbly-executed mandarin and ginger brûlée ($18), which was brilliant, including the crunch on top.

Azuma Den’s staff are highly knowledgeable about dishes and ingredients. For those who can’t decide, head to the “fire feast” section of the menu (minimum two guests/$110 a person).

Cocktails, mocktails and a smart, compact, regular wine list are available. Cellar selections are too. 

We thoroughly enjoyed the 2024 Les Cotilles Chardonnay Burgundy from France ($17 a glass; $80 a bottle).