For a small village-style strip, there are big offerings on the food front at the Griffith shops, says dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.

Lotus Indian is in full swing. Gryphons Caffe and Bar has extensive indoor and outdoor dining. Recess Coffee is pumping. Sweet Little Café welcomes customers with light meals, Rubicon continues its tradition of fine dining, and Sonamu Korean Restaurant covers those craving Asian flavours. There are big offerings on the food front at the Griffith shops.

The newest kid on the block is L’épi. Its owners have taken over Mountain Creek Wholefoods, transforming part of the space into a compact bakery, and delighting fans who worship sweet and savoury bites of goodness. Griffith shops is L’épi’s fourth Canberra location and likely not its last. 

I’ve been several times to this artisan French bakery – for takeaway and to enjoy dining on site (comfy tables and chairs outside). 

Presentation is key with bakeries, and L’épi has nailed it with a wall of freshly baked organic sourdough baguettes, loaves and giant, soft, chewy baked bretzels (pretzels) with toppings. 

A big coffee bar is at the back with baristas using quality coffee beans roasted to perfection by Ona.

Also on display are yummy tarts, pastries, cakes, croissants and éclairs. On the savoury side, quiches, pies, rolls and freshly made sandwiches. Where does one begin?

On my first visit, I enjoyed a pie loaded with tender chunks of chicken and featuring leek ($8.70 and worth every bite). The pastry was light and flaky, and L’épi doesn’t skimp on ingredients. My Moorish pie was packed with flavour.

With dessert items, do not hesitate to dig into a slice of Basque cheesecake, super creamy but not at all super sweet ($8.80) or a fruit tart loaded with fresh blueberries ($9.50). 

Raspberry and strawberry tarts were also on display and – for those who want something tiny – the mini tarts are a fabulous option ($3.80 and six types on my first visit). So, too, are the macarons ($3.50). 

On another occasion, I joined a group of friends and shared three specialty desserts, celebrating L’épi’s motto that life is too short to resist fresh French delights.

The apple and yuzu tart is intriguing – lovely and light ($9.60). More decadent but, again, not overly sweet, is the caramel and chocolate tart, a winning combination ($7.70). The mixed berry cheesecake is well executed ($9.50). All desserts transported us to the streets of Paris with every bite.

The key, for L’épi – in all that it does – is using the finest ingredients, traditional baking techniques and operating with loads of love. When visiting, check out the monthly specials.

The retail side of Mountain Creek Wholefoods remains well stocked. On the bakery side, L’épi sells bags of Jasper coffee, wonderful teas, quality chai, hot chocolate mixes, cookies, jams, crackers and more.