When Kinn Thai moved to its new location on Bunda Street, Civic, it expanded in size by a whopping amount, writes dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.

Kinn Thai’s new fit-out is funky and the food menu vibrant, delicious and stacked with classic Thai and modern Thai dishes. Kinn means “eat” in Thai and – trust me – it’s hard to choose.

Kinn Thai combines table and bench seating. Tip: You may get a cool draft if seated near the front door in winter… we asked to be moved and staff quickly and kindly obliged.

Once settled in, it was a question of what dishes to choose?

A sensational, seasonal starter was the lobster in betel leaf ($7.50 each). The juicy chunks of sweet lobster on a fragrant betel leaf hit the mark and were enhanced with nashi pear, green mango, fresh mint, fried shallots and a superior green chilli dressing. It was a great start. 

Another winning dish was the San Chow Bow ($7 each), with the duck finely minced with crunchy water chestnuts and earthy mushrooms, all served in a crunchy lettuce cup.

A photo of perfectly placed slices of grilled beef inspired us to order this dish ($35). Sadly, the meal lacked finesse with presentation when served but we couldn’t complain about the tender beef, the veggies stir fried “just so” and a punchy, smoky Nam Jim Jaew dipping sauce. 

Rich and creamy was the Panang curry, which you can order with chicken ($25), braised beef ($26) or prawns ($29). Our tender chicken absorbed the wonderful flavours of the rich and creamy curry (just enough sauce to coat). The apple eggplant and eggplant remained firm, the chilli added heat and the basil brought to the dish fresh, sweet and savoury notes. 

Our favourite meal was the coconut salad, a generous serve of poached chicken and lobster tail ($31). The meat and seafood were mixed with cashew nut, chilli and a stunning combo of Thai herbs. It was served in a creamy coconut milk dressing, and we added further intrigue by squirting a wedge of fresh lemon on top.

Kinn Thai’s wine menu is tiny, with one sparkling, four whites, four reds and a rose. BYO was therefore the go with us, with a bottle shop just down the way ($5 per person). Kinn Thai is a master of mocktails (non-alcoholic and $13 or $14) and mixes up a decent range of classic cocktails (up to $20).

The end of our Kinn Thai experience was disappointing. Even though we still had wine in our glasses, staff told us they were closing just before 2.30pm, and we were rushed out the door. Our reservation was for 1.15pm, and the website promises 90-minute bookings. No such luck for us.

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