A prime restaurant space that had been empty for far too long now has a new lease on life, writes dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.
The Lotus Indian is in full swing at the Griffith shops, opening in mid-September where Aubergine used to be located.
With a new, classy and elegant fitout, and service to match, The Lotus Indian aspires to a new standard.
The restaurant offers premium cuisine and beautifully plated dishes, with each a true feast for the eyes.
Director Mandeep Dhaka has serious credentials, having worked at a Michelin-starred establishment in Knightsbridge London. Here in Australia he, and Surena Dhaka, have worked in Park Proxi Gibraltar Bowral and Bendooley Estate Berrima.
But let’s dig into the food here in Canberra, at The Lotus Indian…
To start our experience, we ordered papadum presented with a small bowl of mint chutney decorated with hearts. The chutney offered a bit of zing ($7.99).
New to our tastebuds was the Shakargand and walnut chaat ($18.99), a dish that didn’t disappoint. Roasted sweet potato cubes were combined with crunchy walnuts, crispy bhuja, and both tamarind chutney and creamy yoghurt, creating a sweet and savoury dish with lovely texture. It was colourful and flavoursome.
Equally delicious was the aubergine ($22.99). Thick slices of the eggplant were marinated in Indian spices and char-grilled for a deep, smoky flavour. Feta cheese added a lovely salty quality and the sun-dried tomato an intense sweet-tangy dimension. The dish was topped with mango salsa.
The Aloo Gobhi (potatoes and cauliflower) was sauteed with turmeric, cumin and a secret array of Indian spices ($22.99). This Moorish dish was topped with fresh coriander, and the vegetables were not at all overcooked.
We indulged in a traditional South Indian fish curry famous in Goa ($34.99). The fish was slowly cooked in a roasted coconut gravy that was divine. No one could resist soaking soft, fluffy plain naan ($6.99) and soft whole wheat roti cooked in a traditional tandoor ($5.99) into the rich, complex and irresistible curry sauce.
Don’t forget to order a tray of chutneys, raita and pickles ($9.99) for added intrigue. They arrived lined up on a thin, wooden tray.
As with most Indian restaurants, The Lotus covers vegetarians, vegans and those preferring gluten-free dishes with flair.
On our next visit, we might organise ourselves enough to order the Lotus Special, which takes 30 minutes to prepare. It showcases lobster tail cooked in a rich, spiced masala sauce ($54.99).
The Lotus Indian has a solid wine list, reasonably priced. Our Collector Shoreline Sangiovese Rose married well with our dishes ($58).
When we arrived for dinner, the lights in the dining area were full on and bright. At one point, thankfully, they were dimmed for better ambiance.
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