“In winter, Kopi Tiam’s Malaysian and Chinese-inspired dishes make it the perfect place to warm the tummy with spicy dishes, especially one of my all-time faves, the signature beef rendang.” Dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON’S been to Manuka.
New restaurants and cafes are opening at the speed of sound in Canberra. It’s a whirlwind trying to keep up.
But we must never forget the places that have been providing us with great food for decades, promising consistency over and over again. They, too, deserve our support.
Abell’s Kopi Tiam, in Furneaux Street, Manuka, is one such dining establishment, opening in 1988. Not much has changed with the décor but there’s some comfort in that (if it ain’t broke, why fix it?). Often, the wall to the right as you walk in, features wonderful works by Lorna Sim, well known in Canberra for her exceptional dance photography.
In winter, Kopi Tiam’s Malaysian and Chinese-inspired dishes make it the perfect place to warm the tummy with spicy dishes, especially one of my all-time faves, the signature beef rendang ($34.90). It’s rich and inviting. The curry is complex and smooth. The slow-cooked beef has plenty of time to absorb the special blend of spices, herbs and coconut milk. We eagerly soaked up the sauce with soft, fluffy roti (puff flatbread, $8 for two pieces).
Although we didn’t indulge this time, My Mum’s Laksa is just as famous at Kopi Tiam – Nyonya laksa with bee hoon in spicy coconut curry (add chicken $26.90; add seafood $28.90 and vegetarian $26.90).
On the menu, for many, many years, is the crispy Asian chicken ($28.90). It’s succulent and the salty, soy dressing and fresh, perky coriander salsa round out the flavours perfectly.
Kopi Tiam keeps tastebuds dancing with a small, but mighty specials selection. We adored the white bait ($22.90) with just the right amount of chilli and basil.
The tofu ($27.90) was pleasantly deep fried (not greasy) and topped off with a small, vibrant salad, adding colour and freshness.
Sweet endings include Kopi Tiam’s famous Nyonya coconut and pandan pudding with ice cream ($15.90), and a warm, sticky date pudding ($15.90), also perfect for the cooler months. Puddings feature a black wild rice option and a sago (both $13.90).
The wine list at Kopi Tiam has always been well considered, with Canberra region selections and quality labels from the likes of WA, SA and Victoria on the list. Also featured are a couple of wines from further afield such as Italy and France. Many wines are available by the glass, carafe or bottle.
A perfect match for us was the Marc Brédif Vouvray Classic (2022) from Loire Valley ($80 a bottle). Corkage is $15 a bottle.
The kitchen was buzzing on our visit and the stream of take-away speaks volumes of how Kopi Tiam dishes it up time and again.
Kopi Tiam caters for any dietary requirements and plenty of options are available for those who want gluten-free, vegan or vegetarian options.
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