Dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON gets in the zone and discovers there’s more to pub grub at The Civic. Dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON gets in the zone and discovers there’s more to pub grub at The Civic. AT The Civic Pub, in Braddon, it’s all about the zones, with distinct dining area options for every personality and occasion. 

The main bar is true pub-style with sports events on massive TVs and gleaming, mega-sized Carlton Draught beer tanks. The dining room is less raucous and features a gorgeous fireplace. 

The lounge is laidback, also with a charming atmosphere and fireplace. A private dining area is comfy for eight to 12 guests. And last, but not least, there’s the large outdoor area, complete with afternoon sun, which is where we landed on a rather cool day.

One of the oldest in Canberra, the pub opened in the early 1920s. To this day, it offers that quintessential pub experience that stands apart from the trendy establishments in this part of town – a welcome relief in some ways for so many.

The menu is fairly stable and we kickstarted our lunch with delish duck breast bao buns ($24.90), a departure from typical pub grub but it’s great to see dishes like this being served. The duck breast was enhanced with five spices, soy sauce, coriander, carrot and eschalots. Moist and tender, the duck was perfectly grilled and topped with fresh, crunchy spring onions and a hit of chilli. 

Next up, we shared crab croquettes, also from the bar snacks section of the menu, which married well with our Long Rail Gully Pinot Gris (Murrumbateman and reasonably priced at $37.90 a bottle). The crab meat was sweet and mixed with vegetables and a well-executed bechamel sauce (four for $17.90).

We were intrigued by the flathead toasties and weren’t sure how they would be prepared, but not enamoured by the result. The fish was in chunks on top of smashed avo and a bit awkward to organise. The “toasties” (white bread) weren’t very toasted.

Divine was the mussels, although we wanted a full serve ($33.90) only to discover the kitchen had enough left for a half serve ($22.90). They were absolutely yum and the mussels, sautéed in onion, tomato and garlic, were topped off with a splash of Chinese wine. We soaked our pieces of sourdough in the broth, not wanting to waste a drop.

Traditional pub dishes feature “The Civic Pub Burger” ($23.90) and a house-made chicken and mushroom puff pastry pie, sure to hit the spot at $22.90. 

Those with hearty appetites can sink their teeth into the Black Angus scotch fillet (300 grams for $29.90). Kids are welcome and well taken care of (dishes all $16.90). Doggies welcome too, for steak and veg or a bit of steak tartare (both $6.50).

The Civic Pub has been tarted up and is in pretty good nick. The bright (very) red tartan curtains are a stand-out feature, and the place is all the more cosy with plenty of wood and a warm colour palette. Open seven days.