There’s something special about a classic French bistro and Louis is no exception, writes dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON. 

THE décor of Louis is elegant indoors and out, the ambiance “parfait” and the focus on intriguing wines and exceptional food is undeniable.

Louis, at the Hotel Realm, Barton, has a gorgeous, fully enclosed outdoor terrace with a central fireplace and a combination of lounge and small-table seating. We’ll be back soon to enjoy the bar menu, which begins with tasty snacks such as marinated green olives and toasted almonds ($12), an intriguing-sounding smoked eel, avruga and chickpea pancake ($10 each), the chicken liver parfait ($11 each) or a charcuterie plate ($22 or $35).

We dined indoors and went for the two-course, fixed-price spring menu ($65 each or $80 for three courses). Trust me, it’s great value for the size of each serve and the quality of every dish. 

While it took a bit to attract someone to bring a menu, Louis quickly found its groove and we had a lovely lunch, starting with warm bread rolls and high-quality butter.

The grilled calamari was sensational and the combination of ingredients memorable. The fennel, grapefruit and anchovy butter combo is brilliant, the fronds of dill on top added an anise-like flavour and the calamari was tender and not overly grilled, which would have detracted from the taste. It’s a wow-factor dish on all counts, including a stunning presentation.

My friend dived into the gnocchi and gorgonzola dish (V) which was rich enough, but not overly so. The gnocchi were perfect pillows of goodness and the sauce was smooth, sensational and not too strong. The pine nuts added texture and the raisin a welcome sweetness. 

Second courses were equally impressive. 

My pork cutlet was thick, juicy and perfectly cooked with a touch of pink. It was served on top of braised cabbage and featured a flavoursome and earthy charcutière finishing sauce, which I adored. 

The John Dory, also cooked to perfection, arrived with a beautiful cauliflower cream and a well-executed grenobloise sauce (typically created with capers, lemon, parsley and, of course, butter).

Additional sides range from $12 to $15. Our mixed-leaf salad hit the spot with a white balsamic dressing and helped us cut through some of the richness. The French fries were thin and salty.

The extensive wine list features some “up there” wines. Our chenin blanc, which was incredible, was excellent value for $95.

Sadly, there was no room for desserts, although the strawberry and lime cheesecake sounded divine. We were presented with a lovely chocolate, a partnership between Louis and Loco for Cocoa (Melbourne).

Louis operates under culinary director Ben Willis, who won more hats than any other local chef for his restaurant Aubergine. He now partners with Doma hotel group and has succeeded in bringing quality, well-executed European bistro food to the capital.