There’s something so primal about a premier steak experience, says dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON. 

Hunter and Barrell has been smoking and sizzling since its May opening at Scotts Crossing in Civic. It specialises in exceptional meats cooked by open fire over white, hot coals.

The result? Dishes that are smoky, charred and powerful.

At Hunter and Barrell, our fabulous waiter Kane, knew his stuff and was charming and engaging without being overly familiar. He spoke passionately about Hunter and Barrell cocktails, curated to celebrate spirits matured in barrels for flavour depth and complexity. Trust me, they’re worth trying. 

My mojito was the best I’ve ever had, a perfect mix of barrel-aged rum, mint, sugar and lime ($23). My friend was impressed with his Negroni – barrel-aged beefeater gin, Campari, and Cinzano 1757 Rosso ($23). Mocktails delight the palate, including the Go Coco made with a tequila alternative, cream coconut, lime, orange and hickory smoke ($18).

Our feast began with buttermilk calamari, so soft and tender ($18). We adored the Szechuan marinade, and the lightly fried calamari was a hit with chilli jam.

We were in for a real treat with the smoked bone marrow and raw beef tartare starter ($32). The diced rump – mixed with wild herbs and smoked pickle onion (to cut through the richness) – was presented in a half hollowed out bone. We eagerly spooned it over chargrilled sourdough toast.

One friend, not in the mood for beef, ordered the lamb pot pie ($44). The presentation was stunning. The fluffy puff pastry was golden, and the pie formed around a round marrow bone and served in a cast-iron skillet. The pie was chock-a-block with tender lamb roast shoulder and leg.

Two of us shared the fire-grilled, grain-fed New Yorker ,300 grams and MB2+($73). It was basted with a slightly sweet signature sauce (warning for those who want a cleaner approach). It was high on taste and cooked with skill. Kane recommended the beef fat chimichurri sauce ($6) to cut through the richness of the meat and the glaze.

We selected the mixed-leaf salad, but would have preferred it without such a healthy dusting of parmesan and, perhaps, a dressing without honey since there was enough sweetness.

Truly decadent were the masterfully double-cooked, crispy whole potatoes with truffle salt, Gruyère and truffle aioli ($16 and worth every bite).

At Hunter and Barrell, order the jaw-dropping, grain fed Tomahawk if you dare ($220 for 1.1 kilos) or massive skewers served theatrically on a vertical hanger/stand.

We were stuffed but managed to share the creamy Basque cheesecake with macerated strawberries ($19).

Hunter and Barrell’s interior design tied everything together – timber, stone, earthy colours, rich fabrics and ample sound proofing.