Asparagus beds can be topped up with compost now to cover the crowns, and any stems carrying fruiting berries should be removed, says gardening columnist JACKIE WARBURTON.
Asparagus berries are poisonous, attractive to wildlife, and can spread into bushland.
While they can be collected and sown if you wish to multiply your patch, asparagus grown from crowns are several years ahead of seed-grown plants.
Asparagus plants are either male or female, though they look identical until fruit appears on the female plants. Female plants are best removed, as the shorter, thicker spears produced by male plants are preferred in the kitchen.
Asparagus dislike root disturbance, so choose a permanent position where they can grow year after year. They are heavy feeders and benefit from generous applications of compost every few months, along with a little dolomite lime to keep the soil pH on the alkaline side.
It takes several years to establish a good crop. During the first few years, allow the stems to grow freely so the underground root system can strengthen. After about three years, spears will be ready for harvesting in early spring.
Asparagus crowns are available from June and should be planted into well-prepared soil rich in compost and organic matter.
Purple varieties such as Sweet Purple grow well in Canberra, and white asparagus can be grown by mounding soil around the base of the stems to exclude light. Any frond growth from young plants or thin female plants should be supported with stakes. Enjoy the autumn colour and prune back once frosts arrive.
A NATIVE plant appearing more often and coping well with our harsh summers and cold winters is the Flame Pea (Chorizema varium). Its name reflects the intense and distinctive colour of its flowers. Most species are endemic to WA and can be sensitive to frost, but when grown in a protected spot or in a pot, they perform well through winter.
They are not climbers but low-growing groundcovers, and benefit from a light prune after flowering to keep growth compact and encourage blooms the following season.
Good drainage is essential, and plants should be kept moist. As nitrogen-fixers, they grow well without additional feeding, though a light application of native fertiliser after flowering can help promote new growth.
APRICOTS should be ripe now and ready for picking before birds discover them.
Moorpark is the most common variety grown in our region. It is self-fertile, has soft, smooth skin without fuzz, and grows to around two metres tall, making it a useful small shade tree.
After harvesting, apricots should be placed into cold storage in the crisper as soon as possible. When using fruit for jam, avoid overripe apricots, as they lose pectin. Pick fruit while firm, with a light blush on the skin.
Summer pruning can be carried out after harvest. Apricot trees tend to sulk if over-pruned and may respond with excessive foliage rather than fruit. Remove dead, diseased, and damaged wood, and prune only as much as needed to maintain good airflow through the centre, aiming for an overall vase shape.
Apricots are not well suited to espalier, though dwarf varieties can be tried with regular maintenance and pruning. They prefer soil rich in organic matter, and companion planting with borage, chives, strawberries, and calendula works well around apricot trees.
Jottings
- Fertiliser roses for autumn growth.
- Sow parsnips, swedes and leeks in punnets.
- Harvest and nectarines when they change colour and ripen indoors.
- Continue to pick cucumbers to promote more flowering.
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