Big name. Big expectations. Does Matt Moran’s Compa live up to what Canberra has been promised, asks dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.
Anticipation was up there for the five of us who lunched at Matt Moran’s Compa steakhouse in Bunda Street, Civic and, except for a few niggly issues, the experience was fab.
The thinly sliced salami – sourced from the Moran regenerative family farm in the Central Tablelands – tantalised our tastebuds. It was scrumptious and excellent with vibrant Zuni pickles ($12).
Flawless was the round of burrata, perfect for sharing. It was a beautiful texture and sat proudly on a well-executed eggplant agrodolce offering a lovely contrast ($30).
Heirloom tomatoes are all the rage these days and they’re stunning when beautifully ripe ($16). This simple side featured a few fresh basil leaves, celebrating the love affair of these two ingredients, and a full-bodied Alto Merlot vinegar for zing.
Do not go by the steaks when visiting Compa (it is, after all, a steakhouse). Our Bistecca Fiorentina, which some proclaim to be the “king of all steaks”, was to die for. It was skillfully sliced and pieced back together around the bone to form a complete picture. Clever and fun.
At Compa, this pasture-fed cut is $25 per 100 grams. Steaks are served with rocket, lemon and a choice of sauce (red wine jus, peppercorn, anchovy butter or salsa verde).
Our whole Snowy River trout, which deserves its long-standing reputation, was moist and delicate, although I had several fine bones in mine (sad face). The taste and texture were sensational, and we loved the pack-a-punch preserved lemon and caper burnt butter ($46).
Whole baby potatoes were wonderfully roasted and delish with garlic butter ($16). The side that stole the show, however, was the mac ‘n’ cheese, declared the “most decadent ever” by several at our table ($16). The cacio e pepe (cheese and pepper) was perfectly balanced.
Desserts were made in heaven and please, please, please can we have the recipe for the chocolate torte, with amaretto caramel and sexy crème fraiche? The torte was dense, but creamy, and not overly sweet, which we applaud. Also easy to share was the zuppa inglese – rhubarb, mascarpone, pandoro and pistachio.
Compa’s wine list is extensive, but the prices vary so you don’t have to spend a fortune for a quality drop if you’re not in the mood. Worth exploring is the special Matt’s Cellar Selection, personal favorites hand-picked by the man himself from his private wine collection, all aged Australian classics.
Staff seemed thrilled to work at Compa and it’s no wonder. Minor serving issues were being worked out, but motivation and enthusiasm were top shelf.
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