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Thursday, November 28, 2024 | Digital Edition | Crossword & Sudoku

Big clap for a small but mighty restaurant

The gluten-free kimchi pancake…thinly sliced chilli was carefully placed on top, and the earthiness of the mushrooms shone through. Photo: Wendy Johnson

“The innovative menu pays homage to virtually all dietary requirements without compromising one tiny bit on taste. There wasn’t one dish – light, small, big or sweet – we wouldn’t have ordered,” writes dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.

ABOUT a year ago, Woden’s food scene ramped up a level with the opening of Dada on Furzer Street.

Wendy Johnson.

This small but mighty restaurant deserves a big round of applause for so much. Local wines, local coffee (Barrio, Braddon), local produce, local artisan goods and mostly everything hand-made in the kitchen. 

The innovative menu also pays homage to virtually all dietary requirements without compromising one tiny bit on taste. There wasn’t one dish – light, small, big or sweet – we wouldn’t have ordered.

Owner and chef Peter Kang is very hands-on and beams with pride as he talks about Dada’s Korean-fusion food, including the gluten-free kimchi pancake we shared to start ($13). Dada’s house-made kimchi and pickles are featured in this deceivingly simple dish. Thinly sliced chilli was carefully placed on top, and the earthiness of the mushrooms shone through in every bite.

Also from the small section of the menu is the mega-hit, stir-fried pipi with crunchy bean sprouts ($23). The heat builds with this sophisticated smoky dish, and the little pipis were beautifully cooked.

Next, we selected the Chinese-influenced chicken tortellini, a relatively new winter dish added to the “big” section of Dada’s intriguing menu ($29). It was the best twist on tortellini we’d ever had, and the bits of crispy chicken skin popped in our mouths. The finely minced chicken, mixed with coriander (but not overpowering), was super moist and the tortellini could not have been silkier. 

The dish was decorated with vibrant, house-made, colourful, chilli oil. We adored it. And while we had no room for more, given we had decided to treat ourselves with dessert, we really, really wanted the Crying Tiger beef steak.

All desserts are made in the kitchen, and we couldn’t resist the Jasper + Myrtle (family-owned chocolate maker in Fyshwick) tart ($18). This vegan dessert is far from super sweet, which made it a perfect ending. The cashew praline added a fun texture, the cream was gorgeous, and we loved the bits of salt on top. 

Peter explained that one of his children has many food intolerances, which drive him and his partner, Kaye Park (together they opened Ramentic) to offer so many dishes that are egg-free, dairy free, vegan, and gluten-free. This takes time and a lot of experimenting but it’s really paying off for Dada.

The wine list is close to 100 per cent sourced from the Canberra region, with prices by the glass very reasonable. We enjoyed the Sangiovese rosé (2021) from Collector ($13/glass and $63/bottle).

Dada’s interior design is minimalist but warm and inviting. 

Floor-to-ceiling windows let loads of light through and take time to explore the artwork. We’ll be back soon, this time for the tasting menu ($86 per person).

Wendy Johnson

Wendy Johnson

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