“In 2026, just as in 2024, frost and hail have completely wiped out the harvest. It’s tough,” Yarrh winemaker Caleb Wearne tells wine columnist RICHARD CALVER.

One of the reasons I find the Symposium wine bar at the ANU so agreeable is that you can rock up after the gym or a long, extended lake walk, wearing exercise gear and looking slightly grotty.

And you are always welcomed hospitably and treated no differently than if you were wearing a tuxedo.

Which reminds me of the older woman who decided to greet her husband naked on his return home from work one evening. He walked into the house and saw his wife in that state, asking: “Why are you naked?” 

She replied: “This is my love dress.” 

He responds: “Hmmm, needs ironing.” 

Anyway, after a long walk my friend and I settled in at the Symposium, having an early dinner and I drank a lot of water and then asked for a glass of white wine.

I was offered a taste of a local riesling, the 2023 Yarrh Canberra District Riesling. On first taste, I said to the manager, Albert Chung: “Wow, steely acidity, but pleasant and a good kick of citrus.” 

He looked at the back of the label for the description of the wine and said: “Did you write this for them?” 

“What do you mean?” I said.

“Well, it says here: ‘The palate is zesty with a twist of fresh cut lemon, steely bright acidity and a lingering clean finish’.” 

“Blow me down”, I said and ordered a glass. It went especially well with the dish featuring vannella stracciatella, which is a burrata cheese with a luscious filling.

It’s served with zucchini, pickled green tomatoes and dried olive, flavours that pair well with the steely riesling, which is complex and could be stored for a considerable period and only get better. 

I called the Yarrh winery, in Murrumbateman, and spoke with Caleb Wearne, who last year became the winemaker and lessee at Yarrh with Jessica Caruso.

The founders, Neil McGregor and Fiona Wholahan, have stepped back from the business. I visited the Yarrh premises many years ago when they put on a fundraiser for the Rural Fire Service.

I remember how well their reds went with the supplied barbecue meat. Caleb told me that they still have fundraisers for the RFS. Yarrh is a local Aboriginal word meaning “running water” rather than the sound you make when you burn yourself on the hot barbecue. 

Caleb indicated that the founders had decided to spend more time at leisure, but that 2023 was definitely their creation.

Caleb is also the owner of the Whitton Farm brand and had previously bought fruit from the Yarrh property. He worked at Nick O’Leary wines for 12 years and is a fan of the Canberra District for producing excellent fruit. 

“But,” he said, “we are in short supply of fruit. In 2026, just as in 2024, frost and hail have completely wiped out the harvest. It’s tough.” 

“I wish you luck for 2027” I said, “and that the riesling will be as good as the 2023. I might have to wait some time for Symposium to re-stock with the Yarrh.” 

“Life doesn’t get easier or more forgiving, we get stronger and more resilient.” –Steve Maraboli