“Lilong delivers on big flavours, wonderful aromas, vibrant colours, working hard to represent the excitement of the food found in Shanghai’s bustling lanes and streets,” writes dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.

One big advantage of Lilong by Taste of Shanghai Canberra, at the end of City Walk near the Crowne Plaza, is its proximity to the theatre. 

I’ve been to Lilong a couple of times now, once before the Canberra Theatre, comforted by the commitment to serve mouth-watering food on time and in time for show time. 

Without a huge amount of fanfare, Lilong opened last March and easily sits around 100. The neon street-style artwork is fun. Brick feature walls and a colour palette pivoting around a rich, dark green add intrigue. 

Lilong Tang focuses on “Hai Pai” Shanghai cuisine – modern, cosmopolitan and covering many favourites from many regions of China. It delivers on big flavours, wonderful aromas, vibrant colours, working hard to represent the excitement of the food found in Shanghai’s bustling lanes and streets. 

I can’t resist starting with a wonderfully innovative dish, and our top pick – the Shanghai-style radish croissants with shrimp and ham (three pieces for $11). Served on a black metal tray with a handle, these parcels of goodness – formed in the shape of a French croissant – made us ooh and aah. The savory, flaky pastry was stuffed with Daikon radish, and bits of shrimp and ham, creating a hot, soft interior. They were fabulous.

Before the croissant, we began with Xiao Long Bao, steamed soup dumplings typically from Shanghai, with piping hot broth bursting through on our first bite. The broth was perfectly balanced and it’s no wonder these rank in Lilong’s four best sellers (six pieces, $16.80). Equally soul-satisfying were the steamed dumplings with pork and chives (eight pieces for $12.80), great value and high on taste.

Salt and pepper calamari hit the spot in a major way, and we’ll be back for more ($28.80). The same goes for the Peking-style, wok-fried shredded pork, which we wrapped in super-thin pancakes, adding slices of cool, crunchy cucumber ($35.80).

Dining Asian is fantastic with friends because you can select so many dishes to try. It was thumbs up for the tender Mongolian lamb ($33.80) with its sticky, spicy and aromatic sauce – a real umami taste.

The wine list, although not extensive, features local drops. The Mount Majura pinot gris was $13 a glass or $58 a bottle, reflecting Lilong’s reasonable drink prices. Mocktails sound inviting, including a Yuzu Glow ($14.80) with yuzu, jasmine, tea and mint.

Service was a bit chaotic on our first visit and smoother on our second. 

Tip: When choosing a table, avoid one near a food trolley. It can be noisy and disconcerting when staff are clearing, sorting and stacking dishes. 

Fully licensed. Corkage $5 per glass.