Figs grow well in our climate, but fruiting problems are common. Gardening columnist JACKIE WARBURTON explains how light, pruning, varieties and plant health affect fig production, and how to choose the right tree for reliable harvests.
Figs grow well in our climate and can be kept as a small tree in a pot, or, if left unpruned, allowed to grow into a small orchard tree.
They need as much light and sun as possible to produce fruit, along with fertiliser and water, like any other fruiting tree.
While even a neglected fig can sometimes produce an abundance of fruit, others may grow plenty of leaves but little or no fruit at all.
One of the first issues to consider is mosaic virus, which inhibits leaf and fruit growth. It is easy to identify, with yellow-mottled leaves, deep green stunted growth, and small, deformed fruit. If your tree has this virus there is no cure, and it is best to start again with a disease-free, grafted plant.
There are many other reasons a fig tree may fail to fruit, including overwatering, over-fertilising, or growing a cutting taken from a poor-cropping tree. This can be frustrating, especially when figs are described as easy to grow.
Once fig trees come out of winter dormancy, they produce leaves and new stem growth.
The first harvest of figs is produced on old wood in late spring and early summer. These figs are known as the breba crop and are produced before the main edible crop, which ripens in autumn.
Breba figs are sometimes large, dry, and not very tasty. To add to the confusion, some fig varieties do not produce a breba crop at all. These are known as unifera fig trees and produce one large crop instead.
If you are after a tree that produces medium to large, tasty figs in autumn, buying a grafted tree will ensure your years of growing a fig tree are not wasted.
The two best varieties for our region and climate are Black Genoa and Brown Turkey. Both are self-fertile and do not require wasps for fertilisation.
Fig trees do not like wet feet, so plant them in raised beds with good compost and excellent drainage. They prefer a higher pH, so add a little lime when trees come out of dormancy, or use a fertiliser high in nitrogen and potassium to support fruiting.
BLUE-tongue lizards are local native skinks that are slow-moving and large enough to be easily seen in the garden.
Their blue tongue is visible when they feel threatened, but they are harmless and non-venomous. They should not be touched and are best left alone.
Blue-tongues mind their own business and live under rocks, logs, and small plants in the garden. They are often seen sunbaking during the day, as they are diurnal creatures.
They appear in backyards and gardens during the warmer months, and in our colder region these skinks give birth to live young, whereas in warmer climates skinks lay eggs.
An individual blue-tongue can live up to 20 years and is beneficial for controlling snails, slugs and insects. However, they also enjoy strawberries, leafy greens, fruit, and flowers. Leaving a shallow dish of water in the garden is beneficial for them.
Other skinks found in our region include shinglebacks, commonly called bobtails. These are dark brown with yellow spots and have a stumpy tail. They can bite, but are not venomous. While a bite may cause bruising, it rarely breaks the skin.
Shinglebacks are mainly found in the northern parts of Canberra, can live up to 20 years, and mate for life.
All blue-tongue lizards are protected and are not permitted to be kept in captivity.
Jottings
- The Horticultural Society Autumn Flower Show, Fitzroy Pavilion EPIC, March 7-8. Doors open at 10am and entry is $5, free for members.
- Spray powdery mildew with a fungicide.
- Feed citrus with citrus fertiliser and remove old fruit.
- Trim summer growth on wisteria.
- Apply liquid fertiliser to all vegetables.
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