It’s happy birthday time for Rizla, at Braddon, now six years old and holding strong in a competitive hospitality market with an offering that celebrates fabulous wines and memorable dishes packed with flavour, says dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.
Share plates are the name of the game, dictated in part by the size of the kitchen (small, but mighty), but diners can also let Rizla “sort it out” for $85 a person.
We shared and then shared some more, loving our little possie in the outside, semi-enclosed garden setting at the front of the restaurant.
The finger lime mignonette served with fresh Sydney rock oysters ($6 each) was fresh, inviting and perfectly balanced. We loved that it wasn’t too acidic.
Rizla’s tuna tartare was sublime, and we scooped it up with house-made potato crisps ($27). The dish showcases how Rizla worships quality ingredients and takes time to plate perfectly.
Fun and deeply delicious was Rizla’s creamy chestnut soup, served in a small shot glass ($6 each). It was sweet, nutty, earthy and rich.
We were all surprised and delighted with the fennel which, when braised, transformed into the tastes of pear. Rizla’s kitchen creates this dish with sensational stracciatella, currants and a perky pepita praline ($24).
Chicken skewers have been on Rizla’s menu for yonks, always moist and creative. Today’s biji skewers feature banana ketchup, curry leaf, and bhel ($17 for two skewers with each stacked with large cubes of meat).
One of our party, who used to live in Braddon – Rizla’s neighbourhood – had memories of the confit tomato and was keen that we give this dish another go. We were glad we did.
Two pieces of tasty toast with macadamia butter were placed on a wooden board and slices of tomato were set on top, with dobs of black garlic in between. Fresh green micro herbs added that finishing touch. Yum.
Rizla is famous for its parmesan fries ($13), served piping hot with chives and fennel salt ($13). We couldn’t resist ordering a second lot.
Wines are fascinating and the descriptions on Rizla’s list are fun and lively. While specialising in high-quality, intriguing rieslings, Rizla’s wine list includes wonderful reds, rosés and other top drops. Staff delight at advising.
Our 2021 Von Winning Haardter Herrenletten Riesling, from a large vineyard in Germany ($130 a bottle), promised, and delivered, “power and persistence”.
From Australia, we savoured the 2021 Vickery V Reserve Riesling from Mason Woodcarvers Vineyard, Eden Valley ($110 a bottle), described on the wine list as one of the last made by “the Godfather of Australian Riesling, John Vicker”’. It’s a complete package.
Service at Rizla is second-to-none. It’s engaging, informative and fun, without interference. Concerted effort is made to make diners feel welcome, relaxed and at home.
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