Sunflowers are bright and cheerful flowers to grow in the garden and should be flowering well now, says gardening columnist JACKIE WARBURTON.
THERE are many varieties of sunflowers to choose from and the flower colour ranges from reds to creams.
There are dwarf varieties and my favourite small sunflower this year is “Sensation”. It grows perfectly in a pot suitable for a table decoration or a small courtyard. It needs a moist soil to grow its strong roots to support fast growth.
It likes a high pH soil around six and needs at least six to eight hours a day of full sunlight. It can take up to 90 days to flower, so seeds need to be sown in spring for an annual summer crop to flower through to autumn.
When planted in blocks, the flowers will face the sun; some varieties can grow up to four metres tall. Most sunflowers have one central flower with, sometimes, smaller flowers on small branchlets. Sunflowers are highly attractive to bees and butterflies, which rely on them for pollination.
The parrots and cockatoos will have a go at eating the ripe seed, but they seem always to leave a small amount behind to germinate next season.
One warning, sunflowers are toxic to potatoes and if planted nearby will inhibit potato growth and increase the chances of blight and fungal disease.
FUCHSIAS, which are flowering at the moment, grow best as an understory plant below taller shrubs and trees. But they still need good light to flower and grow best where there is morning sun, afternoon shade and shelter from cold winds.
A hardy, erect-growing shrub that will survive our winters is Fuchsia magellanica. It can fill a space two metres wide over time.
Fuchsias are easy to propagate. Cuttings can be grown in a jar of water on the window sill with strong indirect sunlight. Importantly, remove leaves from the stem to keep the water free of them.
After a few weeks, there should be roots growing from the base of the cuttings. They can be carefully moved into a potting mix.
Fuchsias can grow for at least 30 years. They are great for hanging baskets and to keep the growth compact, a light trim a few times a year will promote growth for new flowers.
No pruning in frost periods, but once the threat of frost has passed, they can be trimmed a little harder. A good chop will ensure the growth is compact and maximises flowering. After a few weeks, when there are a few sets of leaves, pinch out the tip to encourage more stems for flowering and keep growth strong to encourage new leaves.
SUMMER pruning of stone fruit can be done when the fruit has been taken off the tree and the temperature is not in the high 30s or when rain is imminent.
Summer pruning cuts heal in the warmer weather faster and pruning this time of year helps shape the tree for next year’s fruiting.
Remove any dead, diseased or damaged branches and any that cross over. Reduce the lengths of long and leggy branches by a third to strengthen new branches to form new fruiting spurs for the next season. The aim is to have a tree that is manageable with good airflow and strong structure to hold next year’s fruit.
DEADHEADING of all summer flowers and vegetables will encourage more yield this time of year. Keep the water up to gardens with a long, deep watering and seaweed solution that feeds the soil.
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