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Tuesday, March 25, 2025 | Digital Edition | Crossword & Sudoku

Up the hill and over the moon

Dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON took to the heights of Red Hill, where the views matched the trattoria food experience.

The views from the top of Red Hill are breathtaking and can now be enjoyed from two new dining venues – Lunetta Trattoria (downstairs and more casual) and Lunetta (upstairs and more elevated to fine dining).

Wendy Johnson.

I haven’t been to Lunetta (yet) but have enjoyed lunch at the trattoria twice and each time was over the moon with the décor, service, food, wine and atmosphere. 

Lunetta Trattoria celebrates sharing and lets diners create their own charcuterie or cheese platter from the antipasti section. The burrata ($18) was exquisite with its solid shell and creamy interior. It was a beautiful consistency and not too thin. 

The beef carpaccio ($26) arrived underneath a mound of very fine parmigiano covering virtually all thin slices of meat. I wondered if it was too much, but I was wrong. This is a wonderful dish, and the carpaccio marries well with picked fennel, Caesar mayo and charred lettuce.

Another exceptional offering is the light chicken parfait, beautifully plated and a true feast for the eyes ($26). It arrived with a quenelle of caramelised onion and slices of salted cucumber for added texture. 

Mains were impressive. The pasture-raised half chicken was created with beer brine and cooked in Lunetta Trattoria’s large wood-fired oven. It was super moist, loaded with deliciousness and arrived with a rich, full-bodied jus, dollops of fresh, vibrant watercress verde, and a juicy half lemon ($28).

With the chicken, we indulged in amazing fried crushed new potatoes. Lovely and salty and fabulous with leaves of fried sage, the dish was elevated with Parmigiano Reggiano ($16). 

Equally brilliant was the broccolini, with whipped lemon buffalo ricotta, salted garlic almond and a tasty shallot dressing ($18). These two dishes highlight Lunetta Trattoria’s ability to create Italian-inspired cuisine blending traditional techniques with contemporary flair. 

Pasta specials are worth exploring. On my second visit, this was a large pasta, woodfired baked alla vodka with spicy Nduja (pork sausage) paste ($32).

Lunetta Trattoria has a massive open kitchen. Diners perched at the bar can watch staff plating up dishes and desserts or slicing meats on an impressive, hand-operated Omas Heritage vintage-style slicer (craftsman-built). It’s a mighty machine.

We don’t always indulge in desserts but got a sneak peek of a couple passing by and couldn’t resist. The caramel flan was perfection ($18). The chocolate ganache, grilled cherries, lemon thyme and whipped cream ($22) a dream dessert, with stunning flavours. We agreed the tiramisu wasn’t the best we have had ($20). It wasn’t as firm as we would have liked.

The wine offering at Lunetta Trattoria is well thought through. Our textural 2023 Spinifex Vermentino, from the Barossa Valley, was $70 a bottle. 

Service is friendly and attentive, and nothing is too difficult.

Wendy Johnson

Wendy Johnson

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