Dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON orders Wagyu tongue and Rebel Rebel comes up trumps.

I WASN’T at all surprised when the “Sydney Morning Herald’s Good Food Guide” awarded Rebel Rebel a Chef’s Hat and pronounced the restaurant as “stylishly simple and all things to all comers”. It is, beyond doubt, one of Canberra’s top places to dine.

The menu has changed since our visit, but some standouts remain, and with good reason. 

Let’s start with the Wagyu tongue ($28). This may well not be something everyone dares to tackle in the kitchen at home. However, ordering tongue at a place of the calibre of Rebel Rebel guarantees a stunning result. 

The dish was sensational and showcased how Rebel Rebel dares to be different. The tongue was served with vibrant peppers on top that added a sweetness and a burst of colour. The tongue was soft, not chewy, and not overly strong. We all adored the experience, even a friend who arrived a bit late. We didn’t tell her what the dish was until she had indulged. 

Also still on the menu is the burrata, a visual star of a dish. Not everyone loves the texture of burrata, which can vary quite a bit. I’ve had superb takes on this soft, stringy cheese and some terrible experiences. Rebel Rebel’s Fiore di Burrata is amazing, and the salad celebrates sweet and bitter and crunch ($12). The radicchio, with its royal colour, was a superb combination with plump grapes and crunchy walnuts. 

Rebel Rebel has been in New Acton for some years now and it is still thrilling diners. Even the chips are to die for ($10).

The menu changes regularly and the focus is always on the highest-quality ingredients. Premium-grade Appellation Sydney Rock Oysters come natural or with citrus Pomelo and pink peppercorn ($5 each). The Hiramasa Kingfish celebrates apples, dill and horseradish ($25). Beef tartare is a winner with anchovy, pickles and hot English mustard ($26).

Rebel Rebel has a relaxed vibe and customers can pop by for a drink and something light or a full meal. The dramatic cathedral ceiling installation is from reclaimed hardwood and fun elements include an out-there David Bowie portrait hanging behind the bar. Big windows allow the light in, and tables are appropriately spaced for comfortable dining. 

I’ve never been for breakfast but have put it on my list for 2023. The charred sourdough, asparagus, broad beans (one of my all-time faves) and ricotta salata sounds sublime ($14). Same with baked eggs with Shankleesh and chilli Aleppo pepper ($18). How about a bit of black pudding with fried eggs and punchy pickles ($19)?

Rebel Rebel is serious about food but avoids pretension at all costs. The wine list offers many interesting options available by the glass.