Marina and John Sekoranja are the beneficiaries of a dream that was built from the desire to produce good wine in beautiful surroundings. Wine columnist RICHARD CALVER has been out to McKellar Ridge.

The weather was from a fairytale, Goldilocks, as mate Tom and I drove out to Murrumbateman to taste the wines of McKellar Ridge. 

Which reminds me of the question my children asked me when I used to read to them: “Dad, do all fairytales begin with ‘once upon a time’?” 

“No,” I said, “there are a few that begin: ‘If elected, I promise…’.” 

But the story of McKellar Ridge is like a fairytale: the happy-ever-after of a dream that was built from the desire to produce good wine in beautiful surroundings.

This is what winemakers and owners Marina and John Sekoranja have achieved. The McKellar Ridge property has a great view all the way back to the Brindabellas and the lines of vines frame the ridgeline in an attractive fashion. It’s a top spot.

Established in 2005 by Dr Brian Johnston and his wife Janet Johnson, they sold the property to its current owners in 2017. The two couples worked together for one season so that Marina and John would literally understand the lay of the land.

John is now invoking the memory of his family’s origins as vintners from Slovenia and Marina is using her skills from her background as a dietitian to pursue their goal of creating a range of wines they themselves would want to drink.

They have succeeded, although it’s a continuing journey, now producing 1600 cases a year, which is more than double the production of the original winery. 

Tom and I tasted some of the wines on their list. I was interested to taste their riesling, as I’d met John and Marina at the International Riesling Challenge where Marina was a judge.

The riesling was typical of the varietal from Murrumbateman: lime peel and white flowers on the nose; on taste the citrus element remained with a strong acid line, one that will ensure this wine keeps well but now, to my palate, outweighs the fruit.

I was also keen to taste their sauvignon blanc as John Ings, of Canberra Wine and Spirit Merchants, had sold me a bottle that I gave to my ex-wife for her birthday.

John Ings had recommended the McKellar Ridge sauvignon blanc as the best produced in the Canberra region. The 2023 was produced from grapes sourced in Tumbarumba to give it the benefit of cooler-climate conditions. It had tomato plant on the nose, like many Kiwi savvy bs, and a rich tropical fruit palate that was balanced well with a touch of acidity. I can see why it won a silver medal at the Canberra and Region Wine Show in 2024. 

The pinot noir 2023 had nine months in oak and showed the complexity that this treatment provides. There are complex spice notes and a lovely element of pepper and violets at the finish. Medium bodied, this wine will become even better over time. 

The Estate Merlot 2024 was a graceful wine with a full mouth feel that some merlots produced in Australia don’t achieve. This wine was very easy to drink.

The star of the show though was the wine that has come to exemplify good quality wine produced in the Canberra region: the Estate Shiraz Viognier 2024. This wine has already won two gold medals and is about half the price of its much vaunted Clonakilla competitor and, in my view, of equivalent quality. The addition of only four per cent viognier gives the shiraz a different complexion, with layers of rich fruit flavours that provide an elegant wine that will please for many years to come. 

“Work is love made visible.” –Khalil Gibran