“I find the bias against chardonnay puzzling given that some of the highest-quality French Chablis wines are one hundred per cent chardonnay,” writes wine columnist RICHARD CALVER. 

MY friend Todd, who loves chardonnay, was visiting Canberra.

He’s long praised this varietal as the queen of grapes and hailed the diversity of styles that it can produce. 

His view stands in stark contrast to the ABC drinkers: the “anything but chardonnay” crowd, who applaud the Kath and Kim “cardonnay” assignation: for classy ladies. 

I’ve experienced this bias during a work lunch where one of my female colleagues actually used the phrase “anything but chardonnay” as I asked for white-wine preferences after being nominated as the person to choose the wine. 

I find this stance puzzling given that some of the highest-quality French Chablis wines are one hundred per cent chardonnay, as is Pouilly-Fuissé grand cru, which comes from the Mâconnais subregion of Burgundy in central France, a wonderful wine. And let’s not discount the elegant and expensive Yattarna, the Penfolds “white Grange” as some have designated this extremely well-balanced wine. 

We decided to meet for lunch in Manuka at a moderately priced Chinese restaurant where mate Tom also joined us. Three retirees looking to enjoy life, but on a budget. 

Fortuitously, the wine media were awash with the news that Taylors Wines’ 2022 Jaraman Adelaide Hills and Clare Valley Chardonnay had won the “Best of Show Australian white wine” at the prestigious Mundus Vini international wine competition held in Germany in February. 

I say fortuitous because we could drink an award-winning wine at an advertised $26 a bottle: I’d purchased a bottle from Prohibition on the Kingston foreshore for $26.99 and Tom found an advertisement where it was selling for as low as $20 a bottle.

The international wine competition held in Germany appears, from the reports that I have read, to be rigorous in its scrutiny of submitted wines. It’s reported that 7500 wines were tasted by a panel of 240 tasters, makers and retailers. There were 46 different nationalities represented on the judging panel. So it was no mean feat to win the best Aussie white in show.

Tom had brought another Aussie 2022 for comparison, a Stonyfell The Cellars unwooded chardonnay. 

We tried the Taylors first. It had a light yellow colour with good clarity, a nose with just a hint of peach and a short but pleasant stone fruit finish. It was not a standout, but it was pleasant, especially as March has produced unseasonably hot weather. Well chilled, it suited the hint of spice in the chicken dish and calmed the heat of the day. As it sat in the glass it opened up and the stone-fruit flavour was more prominent. 

Todd hadn’t said anything until we’d pontificated along those lines but then said: “Yes, I drink this when I can. It’s been a consistent favourite over the years. I’m not surprised it won an award.”

In contrast, the Stonyfell was more complex with a much more acidic finish than the Taylor’s but at $18 a bottle even better value. The acid presaged that it would keep well. Plus, it was good for cutting through the heaviness of the kung pao chicken, whereas the Taylors was more suited as a complement to the vegetarian dish. 

The positive side of the ABC movement seems to have been that Australian chardonnays are on the market for very reasonable prices, even award-winning chardies. 

The lack of love for this varietal is something that is a boon as well as a bane. As retirement and high inflation means that personal finances get tighter, wines that are this good in the value-for-money stakes become the drink of choice. 

“Love conquers all things, except poverty and toothache.” – Mae West